Our Visit to Chiapas: The Day of the Virgin of Guadalupe

In the southern part of Mexico separated by miles of winding mountainous roads, you’ll enter a state that both feels like Mexico and also an entirely different place. That’s because Chiapas was actually its own country in the not too distant past, only acquired by Mexico in the early 1800’s. It’s a poor state, with large amounts of subsistence farming and an almost non-existent education system. However, it’s a wonderfully proud state as well, a place where the indigenous groups are strong, and they still regard their Chiapas as their own country.

In the remote and beautiful city of San Cristobal de las Casas, you’ll find a unique mixture of people: strong Indiginous groups with unique beliefs and rituals influenced by the Mayans and Aztecs, visible remnants of the Zapatista rebels that rose up against the government in the 90’s, and a substantial group of American and European hippies who have adopted the city as their own remote outpost in the mountains.

Josh and I had the pleasure of visiting San Cristobal de las Casas on El Dia de la Virgen de Guadalupe (Virgin of Guadalupe Day) on December 12th, which happened to be one of the most interesting times to visit, given that it was a day full of ritualistic ceremonies. For those of you unfamiliar with the Virgin of Guadalupe, she’s one of the most important representations of the Virgin Mary celebrated by Catholics in Mexico. Some historians have also asserted that she an amalgamation of the Virgin Mary and the indigenous Aztec mother goddess Tonantzin. The story goes, the Virgin appeared to a man named Juan Diego on a hill north of Mexico. That location also just happened to be well known to the indigenous people as an important worship location for Tonantzin, possibly making it conveniently easier to convert Indigenous people to Catholicism. This assertion was rejected by the Catholic church during the canonization of Juan Diego, but I’ll leave it up to you to decide. All that to say, the Virgin of Guadalupe is important to many, many Mexicans, including the large Indigenous groups in the south.

In the tiny town of San Juan Chamula near San Cristobal lies the famously decorative and unique church of San Juan (John the Baptist). For many of the Indians who live in this town, John the Baptist is a blend of the saint and the Mayan god of rain, fertility and water, Chaac (or the Aztec god Tlaloc). The pews and items you would normally recognize in a church have been removed, and as you walk in you realize that this is not a church at all, but a modern day indigenous temple of worship. The floor is covered with pine needles, an ancient symbol believed to enhance fertility, and worshipers begin burning little candles everywhere on the floor. There is no organization to worship, and shamans move slowly throughout the church burning incense, shaking percussion instruments, banging drums and chanting, and the sounds of fireworks from outside the church break the low rumble of activity with a loud boom every few minutes. There are hundreds of representations of saints, moved in their coffin-like boxes all around the periphery of the room, giving the impression of a very odd museum where the only exhibits are colorfully adorned mannequins with staring eyes in glass cases.

Outside the church of San Juan Chamula on the day of the Virgin, men in traditional costumes set off very loud booming fireworks and line up in a long line facing the church to purify themselves. Back in the day, the indigenous custom was to drink a poison that would make you vomit the evil spirits. Nowadays, the requirement of vomiting has been replaced by belching, and the poisonous stimulant… well that’s been replaced by none other than Coca-Cola. I have to admit that it was an amazing sight, seeing these heavily costumed men lining up in a row, glasses held out to receive a small dose of Coca-Cola, given to them by a boy running by with a case of glass-bottled Mexican Coke.

Afterward, we went to another nearby village called Zinacantan where we saw some of the traditional weaving and sampled some traditional Indian food. Each town around San Cristobal has it’s own traditional dress, and the costumes are ornate, rich and beautiful. The village of Zinacantan uses a blue fabric with various blue flowers and designs embroidered by hand.

We sampled tortillas made from local corn, the masa ground and mixed by hand and cooked on a griddle over an open flame. They served these to us with fresh grown black beans, tomatos and ground pumpkin seeds. Honestly, it was one of the best things I’ve ever tasted. These contained virtually zero fat or oils, and the flavors were amazing. It’s easy to understand why the Indigenous people in this village live long lives, because they work hard and eat such healthy, delicious food. We also sampled the local homemade brew – a strong corn alcohol with hibiscus flavoring. It was VERY good.

All in all, our visit to Chiapas seems like a surreal memory. The festivities made it lively and colorful, and the fact we were able to visit those remote Indigenous towns and see those strange rituals take place is absolutely unbelievable. I’m so thankful for the blessing of travel, and its ability to stretch and expand the world and our understanding of it.

 

My Love Letter to Oaxaca

Last December, Josh and I had the opportunity to spend several days in Oaxaca, Mexico. As a result, it’s now one of my favorite places in the world, second only to Scotland. So how did I fall in love with this fascinating, relatively unknown city? Was it the colorful colonial streets and the heavily scented air, full of chocolate and spices? Was it the taste of mole and the exotic delicacies like fried grasshoppers? Was it the indigenous traditions, and the ancient, magical mountain-top pyramids? Or was it the unique and beautiful arts, crafts and musical traditions? Undoubtedly, it was a little bit of everything in Oaxaca that captured my heart and imagination.

Oaxaca is a cultural intersection that brings together many aspects of Mexico, mixing them together like a delicious, complicated mole. The city itself is full of the gorgeous colonial style architecture that you see in many beautiful cities throughout the Mexican heartland, such as Morelia, Puebla, Guanajuato and Queretaro. The atmosphere is relaxed, and in the main square on weekends the cafes are full of people drinking coffees and micheladas, and families and children with balloons out for a day at the park. Although Oaxaca is well known to Mexican tourists, there are relatively few international tourists there, the majority of which are European families and student backpackers.

But venturing beyond the main square and the quaint colonial streets, Oaxaca also has one of the richest arts and crafts traditions in Mexico, where indigenous groups still make many beautiful handmade goods such as green glazed and carved black pottery, colorful wool tapestries, clothing, jewelry and art. Josh and I toured a hacienda in a nearby village that continues to use natural dyes and traditional weaving methods to create elaborate tapestries. They offer week or month-long classes – we were tempted to sign up.

Many natural and ancient wonders lie just outside the city. We saw the world’s widest tree at Tule (it’s also over 2,000 years old!), visited a gorgeous petrified waterfall, and dipped our toes in mineral-rich springs on the edge of a mountainous ravine. We saw the impressive decorative ruins at Mitla and visited the famous pyramids of Monte Alban, majestically perched high above the city between earth and sky.

And how could I forget the food? We wandered through the huge markets, getting lost in the winding corridors that were full of the sweet and spicy scents of fruit, nuts, chiles and herbs, and stopping to sample strange traditional snacks like chapulines (fried grasshoppers with chile and salt). We watched artesians mixing and grinding Oaxacan chocolate, infused with cinnamon and spices. We tasted Oaxacan mole, sampled mezcal, and of course, enjoyed a few Indio micheladas.

For me, Oaxaca is something between a memory and a dream. It made an indelible mark on my heart and on my experience in Mexico, and I know we’ll be back, again and again.

 

Reverse Culture Shock

I don’t think that “reverse culture shock” is really what we think it is. Sure, when I first arrived in Texas, I had thoughts like: “Wow! American food! Hamburgers! Shopping Malls! Big cars! Clean highways! Washers and Dryers and Dishwashers, Oh My! It’s easy to pay my bills! People get annoyed at waiting in lines! Chick-fil-a! Tex-Mex food! Double sinks! Everything is huge! Everything is expensive!” But most of those daily exclamations have passed by now.

What has remained is the nagging feeling that I’m not quite sure who I am in this culture just yet. In some strange way, it feels like moving to Mexico all over again, even though I’m in Austin. Most of my friends are in the Dallas area, so I’m trying to make new friends (which is hard, as everyone knows). I’m even learning a new language at work – all of those funny little acronyms and buzz words that people say to “save time” or to sound important. I wonder often about how to “be myself” when I’m not quite sure if I remember who that is. Maybe she’s changed. I think she has. Hopefully I find her quickly, because all that wondering is driving me insane.

 

The War on Drugs in Mexico

The war on drugs in Mexico is truly an all-out war. Here in Mexico City, I don’t see any violence first-hand, but according to government numbers (which don’t necessarily mean anything, but it’s all we’ve got) there are over 4,300 dead this year alone (almost twice as many as last year). Say what you want to about Calderón, but he’s doing something, and the drug cartels are running scared.

The violence, especially in Juarez, is horrible to be sure. But it’s actually a good sign that something the government is doing is making a big difference. As the government takes down more and more drug cartel and gang leaders, they are being thrown into disarray, fighting among themselves and with each other, literally tearing themselves apart. They are losing money, and they’re desperate. In Juarez, they’ve started going into schools and other places, demanding cuts of teachers’ salaries. These drug gangs are going through something like withdrawl, and they’re clawing desperately at the walls trying to keep their infamous hold on the country. The best thing that Mexico can do is to continue to stand strong against these groups and continue to weather the storm, breaking them down over time.

But there is another issue at play here, too. One of the historic problems among the government and the police in Mexico is corruption. It’s rampant even among the upper echelons. Just the other day, they found that the former head of Mexico’s war on drugs was being bribed with almost half a million dollars each month from drug cartels. Hundreds of Mexican police especially on the border are thrown into harm’s way battling these dangerous drug cartels, and to be bluntly honest, they are simply not paid enough for that kind of work. Police make so little money here that they consider it appropriate and even necessary to supplement their salary with “tips” or even “bribes.” I think Calderón is making a great step against drugs, but unless the underlying issues of poverty, corruption and fair pay are addressed, I fear that it won’t be sustainable over the long haul.

 

Mexico: A Quick History

Honestly, I wrote this more for myself than for you guys out in blogland. It helped me to organize all of those complicated dates and revolutions in my head. Hope you find this interesting or helpful!

The Olmecs. 15,000 BC – 800 BC
The Olmecs were probably descendants of Asian indigenous people who crossed over on the Bering Strait. They lived primarily along the edges of the Gulf coast and carved massive basalt heads.

The Zapotecans at Monte Albán and the civilization at Teotihuacán. 600 BC – around 700 BC
These two different civilizations were based in Oaxaca and north of Mexico City. They were very powerful and ruled over large parts of Mexico. The pyramids at Teotihuacan are particularly impressive.

The Classic Mayans. AD 200 – 900
Mayans practiced many rituals and had sophisticated art and education. They also had very advanced knowledge in astronomy and mathematics. Once thought of as pacifist, they did engage in brutal fighting and human sacrifice.

The Toltecs. AD 900 – 1100
Centered in the city of Tula, north of Mexico City. They had a militarist culture, and they were famous for these tall statues. Quetzalcoatl “The Feathered Serpent” may have been a Toltec prince who migrated to the Yucatan area, and was later mythologized as a god.

The Aztecs. 1300 – 1521
The Aztecs arrived in Mexico from a distant northern homeland “Aztlán,” the location of which is unknown. In around 1325, they were told by one of their gods that they should pitch their tents at the place where they saw an eagle on a cactus devouring a snake (now depicted on the Mexican flag). This omen was seen right in the middle of the swampy lake-island that became the great Aztec city of Tenochtitlan (and later, Mexico City). They eventually developed their culture based around an emperor, a strict hierarchy, and a warrior ethic. They were a warring and brutal people. They practiced human sacrifice – the gods needed the still-palpitating hearts of their enemies in order to be appeased on a daily basis. For example, when the Templo Mayor (under the main square in Mexico City) was rebuilt in 1487, it is said that over 20,000 prisoners had their hearts cut out in sacrifice.

Spanish Rule. 1521 – 1821
You can imagine how terrified Cortez (Spanish conquistador, pictured at left) would have been when he met the Aztecs. But he won allies with other surrounding Indian tribes and defeated the Aztecs at Tenochtitlan through a bloody siege. After the conquest, diseases brought by the Spanish, including Smallpox, caused large numbers of deaths among the Indigenous. This was the period of Colonial Mexico, where many Spanish people moved in and built large homes and haciendas. Near the end of this time, several leaders of the people, such as Father Hidalgo and Father José Morelos, led uprisings that pushed toward independence.

Mexican Republic. 1821 – 1864
Mexican Independence Day is celebrated on September 16.
Other important dates during this time:
Texas broke away from Mexico in 1836, sparking a war with Mexico. This is when the battle at the Alamo happened (where Mexico won – thanks Benny!). Texas eventually won, though.
When Texas joined the United States 10 years later in 1846, Mexico and the United States went to war. The US invaded Mexico all the way to Chapultepec castle in Mexico City, and Mexico lost. As a result, Mexico lost nearly half of it’s territory to the United States, as shown in the image.

The Reform. 1857 – 1864.
The reformation period was a battle between liberals and conservatives over reforming the constitution and the government. Benito Juarez, a Mexican indigenous man, led the liberal reform of the constitution. The conservatives got the support and involvement of the French, who sent troops over to try to gain control. In a famous battle on May 5, 1862, the French were defeated (for the time being) in Puebla. We know this day as “Cinco de Mayo.” I’m not sure why it is so well known in the United States – it’s NOT independence day (as some believe).

French Occupation. 1864 – 1867.
Maximilian from France was set up as the Emperor of Mexico for a short time. He remodeled the beautiful Chapultepec castle where he lived with his wife Carlotta. His rule was precarious and he relied on repression of the people in order to remain. The liberals wore down the conservatives and their French allies through guerrilla fighting, and Napoleon III removed his troops from Mexico in 1866. In 1867, Maximilian was captured and executed.

Mexican Republic (Take 2). 1867 – 1910.
Benito Juarez became President of the republic after Maximilian was executed.
After his death in 1872, Porfidio Diaz gained control and was elected as president 16 times (that’s right, 16). Cities in Mexico prospered but the lower classes became disillusioned and alienated by Diaz’s policies.

The Revolution. 1910 – 1917.
Revolution Day is celebrated on November 20.
After a new president, Madero, took over Díaz’s rule, revolutionary fighting broke out in many parts of the country. A northern resistance was led by Pancho Villa, and in the south, by Emiliano Zapata (both are shown in the image above). History gets a little more complicated here… lots of people were assassinated, including Villa, by the time things settled down a little more in 1917.

Mexican Republic (Take 3). 1917 – present
1917: A revolutionary constitution was put into place
1930’s : Economic depression, agrarian reform.
1938: President Cárdenas nationalized the foreign-owned oil industry.
1940’s – 1960’s : Sustained economic growth after the depression.
1968 : The ‘68 Olympics, tarnished by bloody violence against student protesters at Tlatelolco.
1980’s – present : Economic recession?

 

Seeing John Malkovich

Josh’s sister Sarah is in town visiting, so we took her to one of our favorite Saturday spots – the art and craft market in San Ángel, and a wonderful restaurant nearby with live salsa music at around noon. We sat down at the restaurant and began enjoying our lunch. Then, we had the following conversation:

Sarah: Is that guy at the table behind Josh famous?
Amy: Why?
Sarah: Well, somebody just came up to him and asked to shake his hand.
Amy: (Studying the wrong person at the table) Umm, I don’t know. I guess he looks like he could be important.
Sarah: No, that other guy.
Josh: I don’t know, but every once in a while I hear him talking, and he sounds a heck of a lot like John Malkovich.
Amy: Oh my gosh. That IS John Malkovich.

Also, I just saw this magazine cover at the supermarket. Seems like John Malkovich is everywhere these days!

 

Day of the Dead 2008

Last year, I wrote quite a lot about the celebrations of Day of the Dead in Mexico City and at the UNAM. “Day of the Dead” is a celebration in Mexico intended to honor the dead. Some people actually believe that the dead come back on November 1 and 2 from the spirit world, and can find their families offerings of food and enjoy their favorite things from their lives on earth. But a larger majority of people view it as a holiday to remember the dead in memorial, and as an excuse to decorate things very colorfully. This year, over the first weekend of November, Josh and I went on an excursion to the state of Michoacán. The Day of the Dead celebrations there are famous and colorful (and traditionally celebrated), but the surroundings of the area are even more beautiful. We fell in love with beautiful Michoacán, and especially with the quaint towns around Lake Pátzcuaro.

Some pictures for you from our trip are below. Enjoy!

An “ofrenda” in Morelia.

The cathedral in Morelia at night.

Do skeletons like ice cream?

Just being silly!

A beautiful display in Morelia.

Sugar calaveras! I think the one with glasses is Harry Potter.

A colorful ofrenda in Pátzcuaro.

An accordion player in Pátzcuaro.

The Island of Janitzio, from Lake Pátzcuaro.

A traditional fisherman on Lake Pátzcuaro.

Musicians on our boat.

A video from the boat ride with beautiful scenery and some group singing!

Sunset on Lake Pátzcuaro.

A traditional Day of the Dead ofrenda in the cemetery on Janitzio Island.

A local boy from Janitzio, asking for a little money for his little pumpkin.

A traditional Day of the Dead ofrenda in the cemetery on Janitzio Island.

A local boy lighting a traditional ofrenda on Janitzio Island.

Beautiful countryside in Michoacán.

Beautiful countryside in Michoacán.

 

Save the “Water Monster” of Xochimilco

I ran across a fascinating article the other day about a giant foot-long salamander that looks like a fish with legs. It still lives in the few remaining lake canal systems of Tenochtitlan, the ancient Aztec city upon which modern-day Mexico City was built. The Aztecs built their city in the middle of the ancient lake, creating canals between square, raised areas of earth, called chinampas, where they farmed. The people got around principally on gondola boats, a little like Venice, only not. Below is a visual representation of Tenochtitlan – you can see the canals and some of the squares that are the chinampas.

The only area of old Tenochtitlan that remains is called Xochimilco, where today, you can take a lovely boat ride in brightly decorated gondolas. The article notes that the “water monster,” as it is lovingly called, was an important part of the Aztec legend and diet. It has apparently survived at the bottom of the canals in Xochimilco since ancient Aztec times, but it is now in danger of extinction. Here’s a picture – he sure is a funny looking little guy, isn’t he?

 

Water, Electricity, and All of Those “Important” Things

When we lived the US, we usually took things like running water and electricity pretty much for granted. Sure, the lights could go out during an intense summer thunderstorm, but for the most part, we didn’t really even think about them.

Here in Mexico City, a very large number of people (probably millions) only have running water one day, or one hour, a week. That means that they fill up every large container and barrel that they have in their homes and then use them throughout the week to wash dishes, flush toilets (the old fashioned way by pouring water rapidly into the bowl) and take baths. Some people, especially on the edges of the city, don’t have running water at all and rely on the service of water trucks. Some people use re-usable jugs called garafónes that you can take and fill up with purified water at many locations around the city. Or, you can always use a bucket.

There is a water crisis in this city. With an overcrowded population of 22 to 30 million people that is growing every day, all of the infrastructure systems (not just water) simply can’t support everyone. The water systems and pipes are old and a lot of water is lost due to leaks. The rainy season causes backups and sewage problems. Sewage is a big problem in the poorer areas that don’t have running water at all. Plus, Mexico City is running out of water. The water tables below the city from the old Aztec lake city of Tenochtitlan are drying up, and also causing Mexico City to sink even more quickly as they collapse. The city brings in a large amount of water from other sources. Water marks the huge class distinction plainly here– the ultra-rich have rooftop swimming pools, and the poor (by far the majority in this country) may not have running water at all.

Water and electricity are connected together in our apartment complex. When the lights go out, the water goes out. When there’s not “enough electricity” flowing through the lines to run both the lights and the water pumps, they choose the lights. For that reason, we usually keep a few jugs of water on hand. Lately we’ve had to use them often. For some reason, the water seems to go out right when I’ve got a lot of dirty dishes and 10 people coming over for dinner. That is the case today. I hope the water comes back on so that I can take a shower and do the dishes, or we’ll have to cancel the movie watching party that we have planned with the students in Josh’s Bible study. I personally don’t like to cook raw meat without running water or ask my guests to flush the toilet the “old fashioned way.” But a lot of people in this city do it on a daily basis. That sure puts things into perspective, doesn’t it?

 

Changes

And with one final soaking goodbye, the rainy season was gone. The air grew cold, and the smog settled down over the great bowl of the city for its long winter’s nap.